Ann's Final Reflection

My Last Blog Posting – What Has the Trip Meant to Me?

I vividly recall a conversation that I had with Jim Seuffert at our going away party in June. Since he had recently completed a similar cross-country journey, I was asking him basic information that would help me to survive: “What did you eat? What clothes did you bring? How can I prepare?”  However, he was steering me in a different direction by saying that this trip would change me forever and that I would come back to Delaware as a different person. 

As the days of the trip unfolded, I thought about his comment often. In what ways am I changing? Sure, there were the obvious physical changes. I was becoming stronger and leaner. Then, there were the changes in my cycling abilities in that I was getting more efficient with my pedal strokes and the thought of riding a mountainous century was no longer such a daunting task. Of course, there were also changes made in my circle of friends as Gail and I quickly bonded with 35 other cyclists who were experiencing the same challenges and joys that faced us daily. However, these changes were not what Jim was implying.

Now that I have been home for 2 weeks, it’s much easier to unearth the changes. There have been two profound changes for me. The first one deals with how I have been inspired by my fellow cyclists. I wish that you could have seen how some of the older cyclists persevered day in and day out. They rode by themselves each and every day facing head winds, heat, mountains, flat tires, and rain. They would arrive to our hotel much later than everyone else. Yet, they never complained. In fact, they were some of the most upbeat people that you would ever want to meet. Then, there were those cyclists who became ill or injured on the trip. One guy suffered from pulmonary edema while another person had a chronic urinary infection. One of my favorite women was a college student who battled an Achilles injury that hurt her immensely on every climb. Did these cyclists ever consider packing up their belongings and going home? Not for one second! I will always remember and be inspired by their courage and determination.

The second change that will remain with me forever is my immense sense of gratitude. I now realize that I could never have completed this trip if it had not been for so many others. A huge “thank-you” goes out to the following people:

To all of my HAC instructors, exercise partners and riding friends who prepared me physically and mentally. Because of you, this old body felt prepared for hill repeats, wind gusts that exceeded 30 mph, and grueling daylong workouts.

To the wonderful bike mechanics in this region. Somehow, you transformed my bike into a 2-wheeled tank that could sustain the teeth-jarring bumps of 3700 miles.  

To my friend Linda for creating the “Ann Bikes America” blog site which differs entirely from the Ann Rides America blog which is a porn site!

To the friends and acquaintances who followed our blog postings and made donations to the Mike Clark Legacy Foundation. Gail and I were able to feel your constant support and encouragement. We are still amazed by the number of supporters and your overwhelming generosity. 

To the children, teachers, and mentors from the Boys and Girls Club. Your letters and banners gave us perspective and the will to continue.

To my children – Kevin and Carly – for their phone calls, trips, cards, and genuine interest.  

To my dear friend Gail for putting up with me (and my competitive spirit) for the past seven weeks. I doubt if anyone on the trip had as much fun as we did. Whether it was sharing a glass of wine or sampling yet another buffet, things were always more special because we experienced them together.  

Finally, to my terrific husband Frank who not only cheered me on from the sidelines but is the one who made this dream a reality for me. Frankie, you’re the best. 

In closing, I have been asked many questions along the line of “Are you glad that you did it? and “Would you do it again?”  My answer is – No, I would not do this trip again. Why would I try to replicate this incredible journey? I want to remember it just as it was with all the breathtaking views, incredibly difficult challenges, wonderful companionship, and never-ending support. In my mind, it was perfect!

Here are some photos from our Welcome Back party.....

The End!

Day 50: The Final Day!!!

Monday, August 5, 2013: Manchester, NH to Portsmouth, NH, 60 miles with 2,500 feet of climbing

While this may be my final day of cycling, it will not be my last posting. Within the next few days, I will be writing a reflection as to what this journey has meant to me. Stay tuned!

The day began as another incredibly beautiful day. We are SO very fortunate. Of the 45 days of cycling, it has only rained on 2 days. What a contrast to what our family and friends have experienced in Delaware! We have ridden 3,678 miles (not counting detours), and have climbed (as a good friend suggested) enough miles that we could get to the moon! 

Leaving Manchester, we were all hypersensitive of safety; worried that tragedy would strike on this final day. Despite all of our precautions, a car turned in front of Gail and nicked her elbow. Her quick reactions saved her from a serious accident.

The ride to Portsmouth was uneventful with the exception of a suggested stop at a bakery in Exeter. Realizing that it was the last quality time with many of our friends, we were all a bit reluctant to get back on the bikes.

By 11:30 we had all arrived to a junior high school in Portsmouth where our group photo was taken.

Then, we had a police escort to the Wallis Sands Beach. Of course, for Gail and me the highlight was seeing our wonderful husbands and the banners that were made by the children from the Boys and Girls Club. We both became very emotional.

After the ceremonial “dipping of the front wheel” in the Atlantic Ocean, we were treated to a champagne picnic lunch that Frank and C.J. had prepared. I have no doubt that the celebration will continue well into the night.

The best news of all came when we arrived back to the hotel and received an e-mail message from Dave Ford. The donations to the Bike for Mike’s Kids have surpassed $69,000. We are so grateful to all of our donors. What a wonderful legacy to our summer on a bicycle!

Day 49: Bittersweet

Sunday, August 4, 2013, Brattleboro, VT to Manchester, NH 

77miles with 4,932' of climbing

Today, we had fewer feet of climbing and 2 less miles than yesterday. So why did it feel so challenging?! It was one of those rides where there was one roller after another. By the time we reached mile 60, my legs were shot. Perhaps I hadn't eaten enough or that I was just tired from yesterday, but the last 20 miles seemed like 40. To say that "New Hampshire ain't flat" is an understatement!

We entered the state of New Hampshire at the one mile mark. It was a feeling of relief knowing that this is the final state of our journey. 

Yuval, Gary, Gail, and I rode together and were once again blessed by great temperatures and favorable winds. We traveled through charming New England towns like Keene. Here is a photo of the center of town....

The focus of today was tonight's banquet in which we all made speeches. The evening was filled with lots of laughter but also many tears. We have bonded as a group and many lifelong friendships have been formed. Tomorrow's dipping of our front tire in the Atlantic Ocean will be bittersweet. While we are happy to return to our prior lives, we are reluctant to say good-bye to the amazing people who have been on this journey with us.

Gail and I have felt so supported by friends and family back home. In case you are unaware, we have been supporting a charity that provides mentoring and support to the Boys and Girls Club of Wilmington. Thus far, we have raised close to $50,000. If you have already made a donation, we appreciate it. If you are interested in supporting this worthwhile charity, please visit this website: 

http://www.bikeformikeskids.com/ 

Thanks! Ann

Day 48: A Day For Special Connections

Saturday, August 3, 2013: Latham, NY to Brattleboro, VT, 79 miles with 6, 067 feet of climbing

After a wonderful evening with son Kevin, we were up bright and early as usual. Kevin was there to witness our departure and wish us well. 

Today was going to be a day for climbing as evidenced by the 6, 067 feet in the heading. Leaving Latham, the climbs began immediately, but these hills couldn’t compare to what was to be tackled down the road. By the fourth mile, we crossed the Hudson River, which is not as wide as the Mississippi, but still very impressive. At mile 32, we crossed into the state of Vermont and noticed immediately that there were no billboards but lots of signs for authentic Vermont maple syrup.

The climb out of Bennington was the most significant of the day, lasting between 8 – 10 miles. Of course, the descent was fast and furious. My climbing friend Drew hit speeds of 48 mph, but I was a bit more cautious reaching a hair-raising 41 mph. At mile 59, we had a 3.5-mile climb remaining: Hogback Mountain. This is the view from the summit of Hogback Mountain....

After 48 days on a bike, we were all well prepared. Several cyclists reached the summit and said, “Is that it?” almost disappointed that the mountain didn’t offer more of a challenge.

Tonight, Gail and I were invited to my friend and former college roommate Catherine’s home for dinner.  We had a delightful salmon dinner with family and friends in typical Vermont fashion. 

Day 47: A Visit From My Son Kevin

Friday, August 2, 2013, Little Falls, NY to Latham, NY (near Albany)

74 miles with 2,100' of climbing

I woke this morning in a great mood. In a few short hours, I would be seeing Kevin who was taking the train from Manhattan and renting a car in Albany just to see his dear old mother. 

My cheerful mood only improved as the day progressed. Yesterday's rain cleared all of the pollutants out of the sky and left us with bright sunshine. Temperatures were in the 70's and, most importantly, winds were out of the west - perfect! When we had climbs, we were rewarded with spectacular views. This photo was taken after climbing out of Little Falls...

Best of all, several miles of today's route were on bike paths that ran beside the Erie Canal and the Mohawk River. The photo depicts Lock 8 on the Erie Canal...

Of course, seeing Kevin was the highlight of the day. He arrived by 4:30 and was given the room directly across the hall from us. We met friends in the lounge for a quick drink then were off to RAP where he was introduced. Gail joined us for dinner in Albany at the New World Bistro. It was one of the best meals of the trip - certainly more appealing than the hot dogs that were being served on the buffet. :-) To say that it was great to see him is an understatement. His goal was to provide encouragement to us so that we would finish this journey. I will remember this as I climb the mountains tomorrow. 

Day 46: a Rainy Ride to Little Falls

Thursday, August 1, 2013: Liverpool, NY to Little Falls, NY, 79 miles with 1,610 feet of climbing

As I mentioned to my team, a rainy day like today gives us perspective, prompting us to appreciate the countless sunny days that we have had. Everyone knew that we were in for precipitation as “80% chance of showers” circulated around the breakfast tables. 

Our team varied a bit today as Yuval rode with Don who is coping courageously with pulmonary edema. Terry replaced him and our newly found friend Philippe joined us as well. Though the skies were threatening, the rain never materialized until mile 39. Anyone who has been on a bike during the pouring rain can relate to “rooster tails” and soaking wet feet. The dirt and grit that collect on legs, backsides, and faces give the appearance that we have just finished a round of paint ball where the paint color is limited to black. In fact, I couldn’t resist wiping Jane’s face with a napkin when I saw her at a SAG stop. Sorry, but there are no photographs of the actual ride as the rain prevented photo-ops.  

Once we arrived at the hotel, we automatically went into cleanup mode: hosing down the bikes, cleaning them, and using lube on the chain. Then, we tackled our filthy bodies with a hot shower. Finally, it was time to wash the clothes, the shoes, and the helmets. Sounds exhausting, doesn’t it? I now know why most of us choose not to ride at home when it is raining!

Ending on a positive note, the hotel hosted a wine reception for us.

 It was a great opportunity to have some deeper conversations as to what the trip has meant, how we have grown, and what will happen to us when we return to reality. Since only 4 days remain, I see that folks are struggling with various emotions: excited to return to their loved ones yet sad to leave behind their new friends and the many adventures that we have had.  Gail and I have talked about the fleeting time and have consciously decided to cherish the remaining days – even the rainy ones!

Day 45: The Erie Canal

Rochester, NY to Liverpool, NY

91 miles with 1,600' feet of climbing

We had all looked forward to today's ride as we were going to be riding beside the scenic Erie Canal. However, the breakfast talk was not about the upcoming ride. It was centered around our friend and riding companion Don. After a day of severe leg swelling, he was admitted to the hospital for a series of tests. With only 6 days of cycling remaining, we were all concerned as to whether he would be able to complete the ride. A dark cloud hung over our entire group for the duration of the day. Our thoughts were with Don.

The air was crisp, like a fall morning, as we departed at 7:00 a.m. Almost immediately, we entered the Canalway Trail that runs beside the Erie Canal. We stopped frequently to investigate the waterway locks that raise and lower boats to different levels of water in the canal. Here is a photo of us standing on top of one of the locks just before it was opened....

We passed small towns that have been built beside the Canalway. It was one of the few times that I thought to myself, "I could live here." That is, of course, until I remembered the harsh winters that typically occur here. We saw a variety of boats using the Canal. Here is one of my favorites....

After 91 miles, we were more than ready for a hearty lunch. Luckily, we found this terrific restaurant called Retreat. From left, the photo shows Yuval, Ann, Gail, Philippe, and Gary....

The day ended on a high note when we walked into RAP and saw Don. It looks as though he is going to ride some portions of the remaining miles. Of course, his wife will be acting as his personal escort, keeping a close eye on him. Even our ride leader Jeff was overcome with emotion when he welcomed Don back to the fold. Now that our group is complete, the cloud has been lifted!

Day 44: I Love New York!

Tuesday, July 30, 2013: Niagara Falls, NY to Rochester, NY, 87 miles with 1,550 feet of climbing

The title of today’s post is taken from the Frank Sinatra song of the same name. If you would ask any of the 35 cyclists who are completing this cross-country journey, they would all agree that, thus far, New York is near the top of the list of favorite states that we have visited. The weather has been ideal, the rolling hills have been manageable, and even the food has been first-rate.

Our team shoved off at 7:00 and finished the 87 miles by 12:40. Our average speed was 17.3 mph. At one point, two of the staff members from ABB cycled past us and the chase was on! Gary, now our close companion, (who by the way is 70 years old) actually caught and passed them. For this amazing feat, he was recognized during tonight’s RAP session. You should have seen him beaming with pride. Needless to say, that chase will be one of the highlights of his trip.

The setting was bucolic as we cycled through one small town after another. Seeing charming houses and picturesque farms was the norm. We are close to the Finger Lakes area where the land is fertile and crops grow easily. Everything is green and lush.  

Nine cyclists arrived at our hotel at the same time. Since our rooms weren’t ready, we all had lunch together at a nearby restaurant. Philippe, a cyclist from Israel, was in a festive mood because his daughter delivered his eleventh grandchild today. He bought lunch for everyone and ordered three cakes to be shared at RAP. 

The entire group has become our extended family. We have shared many joys and endured many hardships together. We have folded one another’s laundry, and we have learned all about children and grandchildren. There is talk of reunions and future trips together. As to whether that will happen is yet to be seen. If nothing else, we will have wonderful memories of how 35 strangers united on this incredible journey.  

Days 42 and 43

Sunday, July 28, 2013: Brantford, Ontario to Niagara Falls, NY, 74 miles with 1,400 feet of climbing

Monday, July 29, 2013 Niagara Falls (rest day)

When our ride leader asked the same question that he asks every day, “How was your ride?” the applause and cheers rocked the hotel. Today couldn’t have been a more pleasant day. 

Gary, Gail, Yuval, and I were thoroughly enjoying the tailwind and the 20 - 24 mph speed for the first 17 miles. Even when Gary had a flat tire, it was a positive experience since we had the opportunity to meet a Canadian farmer who wanted to help us with his giant air compressor. We met his wife, his grandchild, and his dog Harley who were all excited to meet these crazy cyclists who were traveling across America. 

The first SAG contained some extra special treats from some alumni of former ABB rides. It was great to meet Mark and his wife Susan who both advised us to cherish this last week as it will fly by. We arrived in Niagara Falls (Canadian side) and went directly to the Falls. While I have seen them before, it was fun to watch our international friends when they first gazed upon these magnificent falls. There are actually three falls: Horseshoe Falls, American Falls, and Bridal Veil Falls.  The Falls were created about 12,000 years ago. The glaciers retreated about 50,000 years ago, creating a large lake. When the surrounding land uplifted, the lake overflowed, resulting in the Falls.

After crossing Rainbow Bridge, we returned to the U.S.A. by entering the state of New York. While Canada was kind to us, there’s nothing like home. 

Pulling into the hotel, we were created by cyclist Rick’s wife who had sparking wine and fruit from the Finger Lakes area. It was a superb welcome! 

We ended the ride with lunch on the hotel patio, listening to a jazz band. After the trials and tribulations of previous rides, we savored a glorious day like today.

Rest Day: Gail and I took a delightful walk around Goat Island where we felt the incredible power of the falls from the American side. I took this photo from Luna Island. I certainly wouldn't have wanted to have been Annie Taylor who in 1901 went over the Falls in a barrel!

We then had a delicious lunch at the Culinary Arts Institute deli which is directly across the street from our hotel. We are now fortified and ready to tackle the last segment of the ride. The end is in sight!

Day 41: We Pushed Our Luck!

London, Ontario to Brantford, Ontario

69 miles with 1,250' of climbing

Today we passed the 3,000 miles mark with a grand total of 3,058 miles (not including detours). Wow - I am amazed by that number. Whereas I don't keep a cycling log as many cyclists do, I can safely say that I have never had a year when I have ridden that many miles. To think that it has been accomplished in 6 weeks is pretty incredible (if I say so myself). :-) 

The morning began with showers so rain jackets, booties, and helmet covers came out of storage. (If you have never seen a helmet cover, you have missed a good laugh. For some reason, the men not the women wear them. They look like bright yellow shower caps. I am sure that they serve a function other than fodder for jokes at dinner. Bottom line - I won't be buying Frank one for his birthday.) While there was a light drizzle as we pulled out of the hotel, the rain stopped shortly thereafter. Our group consisted of Gail, Gary, Yuval, Amy, sometimes Don, and me. Here we are at a SAG...

Note the 3 brand new Canadian jerseys worn by Gary, Yuval, and me. And here we are in action....

We arrived in Brantford by 1:00 and stopped at a restaurant 2 miles from our hotel. This is where we pushed our luck. We should have selected a location much closer to the hotel. As we finished our veggie burgers, we came outside to pouring rain. Thus, we were soaking wet when we arrived at our hotel only to discover that our rooms weren't ready. Looking like 5 drown rats, we sat in the lobby shivering for about 30 minutes. It seems that we learn new lessons every day. With only 8 cycling days left, I wonder if I'll have things figured out by the time that we finish - probably not!

Day 40: Canada, Here We Come!

Friday, July 26, 2013: Port Huron, MI to London, Ontario

82 miles with 1888 feet of climbing

Years from now, when I recall this 50-day journey, I will be sure to remember our crossing of the Blue Water Bridge from the USA into Canada. It was undoubtedly the most significant and symbolic ten minutes. 

We gathered in the parking lot of the hotel at 6:45. Promptly at 6:55, we received the call to begin our bicycle parade. The entire northern span of the bridge was closed to vehicular traffic so that we could cross safely. I could hear cheers, laughter, and comments of pride emanating from all who were beside me. Our two Canadian cyclists seemed to sit a bit taller in their saddles as we crossed into Ontario. 

Upon crossing, we went right into immigration where all went smoothly. It was there that Gail noticed some wires that were protruding from her shifter, and our mechanic promised to attend to the issue a few miles down the road. Upon a quick review, it was determined that Gail would only be able to use 3 gears for the 82 miles. The problem was to be solved when we got to a bike shop in London. Like a trooper, Gail somehow managed to stay in a pace line, pull the line, and average 16.3 mph, using just 3 gears!! For the most part, the ride was uneventful until we came to a little town called Delaware.  There we had a tasty lunch at a country store. 

At the bike shop, Gail’s bike was adjusted so that she will be able to ride the remaining 9 days. Once home, she will need to have her shifter rebuilt. 

Our afternoon was spent in a store resembling a REI, picking up a Canadian jersey and some cycling accessories. At RAP tonight, an ABB staff person mentioned that that tomorrow’s temperature would be 20 degrees. It took a second or two to comprehend that she was citing the temperature in degrees Celsius, and that I wouldn't need my thermals after all!

Day 39: Spectacular Day

Birch Run, MI to Port Huron, MI

87 miles with 1,329' of climbing

Today was one of my favorite days of the trip! The weather was perfect, starting in the low fifties and ending in the eighties. Winds were calm, and the sky was clear blue. Gail and I began the ride, but by the first SAG had teamed up with Yuval, Don, and Amy. We made a very efficient, yet social team. At mile 47, we stopped for chocolate milk at Mary Ann's Cafe in the town of Brown City. While there, we struck up a conversation with a fireman who proudly spoke of the town's memorial to the firefighters who died on 9-11. Apparently, the town applied for and received one of the beams from the World Trade Center. A memorial was erected, and the site is overseen by a local man who lives on the property. It was a very touching and poignant time for us as we recalled all of the lives that were lost that day.

We arrived in Port Huron by 1:30 and went directly to the Thomas Edison Park where we caught our first glimpse of the Blue Water Bridge. This bridge will be closed to traffic tomorrow as we cycle over it at 7:00 a.m. Won't that be an amazing sight - 36 cyclists dressed in red, white, and blue crossing this bridge into Canada?! I am sure that it will be one of the most memorable events of this 7-week journey.

This afternoon, my sister-in-law Mary Ellen came for a visit. She had driven one hour from her home in Detroit. She came bearing gifts for us and all of the cyclists (homemade zucchini bread), which will be devoured by the locusts at our first SAG! She then drove us to one of the finest restaurants in the city where we feasted on the best halibut that I have ever tasted. As the photo shows, we enjoyed an ice cream sundae as well. Yum! Yes, this day was truly spectacular!

Day 38: Another Windy and Flat Day in Michigan

Mount Pleasant, MI to Birch Run, MI

79 miles with 826' of climbing

Today's morning temperature was 48 degrees so it was a day for jackets and vests. We left the hotel by 8:00 and before we knew it, 4 cyclists had joined our group of 4. While a pace line of 8 is too large for my liking, it really does help on a windy day like today. Our first and only SAG today came at 23 miles. I was a bit surprised to pull into someone's front yard. As it turns out, Sandra has been offering her home as a rest stop to America by Bicycle for a number of years. She is a dear woman who recently lost her husband to Lou Gehrig's Disease. Here she is with one of the ABB staff members Karen.

Due to the windy conditions, the wind turbines were able to harness lots of energy today. Gary snapped this photo by dropping out of our line. I'm not willing to run the risk of getting dropped to face the wind alone.

At mile 53, we ran into a "road closed" sign. We waited for our ride leader Jeff to direct us. Here he is painting directions while I look on. The detour added another 5 miles to our daily mileage. We are all learning that you can't plan finishing times as unusual occurrences are becoming the norm.

A huge lunch at Applebee's saved the day. We seem to think about food all the time. That will have to change for me in 12 days!

Day 37: An Easy Century For A Change!

Ludington, MI to Mount Pleasant, MI

113 miles with 3,466' of climbing

Michigan is treating us well! We loaded our luggage at 6:30, and Gary, Terry, Gail and I were on the roads shortly thereafter. My bike is now working fine since Jim our mechanic put my old chain back on my bike at 9:30 last night. It was still somewhat dark as we began, conveying the message that the daylight hours are starting to wane. The sky looked spectacular as the sun peeked over the horizon. The winds were out of the southwest, which couldn't have been better for our direction. Midway through the ride, we picked up Jane and Katie who always ride at a fast clip. Averaging 17.7 mph, we were one of the first groups to arrive at the hotel. It was great to finally have some time to just relax. After yesterday's stressful day (bike issues) and only 5.5 hours of sleep, we needed some relaxation.

Before dinner, we finally had a chance to thank Gary and Terry for their heroic efforts of pulling us those 84 miles when we were both sick. We bought a bottle of wine and caught up on their personal lives. They are two really great guys and considering their ages of 69 and 70, they are in incredible shape.

Tomorrow "should" be a moderately easy day since we only ride 74 miles. Of course, I have been fooled before.

Day 36: Bike Issues and Crossing Lake Michigan

Manitowoc, WI to Ludington, MI (Ferry Ride)

7 miles with 0' of climbing

While today was officially a rest day, we did ride a few miles to and from the ferry. It's a good thing that I took this small test ride before embarking on the 113-mile trek tomorrow. Yesterday, I had some bike maintenance done: changing the brake pads and the chain on my bike. As I pedaled the first few strokes, my chain kept slipping and making a thump, thump, thump whenever I applied pressure on the chain. Something is seriously wrong. Until this point, my Merlin Fortius has been my tried and true companion. Because it is made from titanium, it takes the bumps well and offers a smooth ride. I purchased the bike in 2002, and it has never disappointed me, especially on this journey. Now, I'm panicked. Our head mechanic Jim thinks that I am in need of a new cassette. He spent the first hour of our ferry ride trying to find the specific Campy cassette required for my bike. While we found what we need online, the earliest that I can have it sent to a hotel is 5 days. Because the mechanic who replaced my chain saved it, Jim assures me that all will be fine when they put the old chain back on. Ugh!

The ferry ride across Lake Michigan took 4 hours. My time was spent, eating, reading, and eating some more. The ferry is powered by coal. It reminds me of the Cape May-Lewes Ferry with a few more amenities. Badger Bingo appears to be the big draw for everyone. As you can see, there are some hardcore Bingo players who traverse the Lake. 

Pulling into the harbor was a wonderful sight to behold. Not only was it beautiful - complete with a lighthouse, but it meant two exciting milestones: a new state and our home time zone!

Seven of us ate dinner at the Jamesport Brewery, a spot that was recommended by my Delaware friend Gary. It was delicious!

Day 35: It Should Have Been Easy!

Fond du Lac, WI to Manitowoc, WI

57 miles with 1,350' of climbing

We were all guilty of being a bit too smug about the distance. Only 57 miles we thought. We should arrive to our destination early and get so many things accomplished: bike mechanics, laundry, e-mail... We couldn't have been more wrong. 

After a fantastic breakfast of omelets, fresh fruit, and muffins, we turned right out of our city hotel and rode directly into the park. There, we saw Lake Winnebago and this lighthouse that has been beautifully maintained. I learned that ice fishing is hugely popular on this lake during 5 months of the year.

Just on the outskirts of town, we discovered that there was a significant headwind. It didn't take long for Gail and me to jump on board a pace line that was passing. That was a wise move! We stayed with this group all the way to Manitowoc, averaging 15.3 mph. It was 1:30 by the time that we stopped for lunch, and at 2:45, we reached the hotel. Realizing that we would never accomplish all of our tasks, We quickly divided them and assigned roles. By choosing the laundromat, I definitely got the better deal. The hotel shuttled 11 of us to the establishment, but first, we stopped at the wine store for vino and snacks. Let me put it this way - it was the best laundry experience of my life. :-)

Meanwhile, Gail attended to our bikes. We are now equipped with new chains and brake pads!

Tomorrow is considered a rest day even though we are riding 7 miles. We will be crossing Lake Michigan and enter into the Eastern time zone. My watch will finally be accurate!

Day 34: Great Day To Be On A Bike

Wisconsin Dells, WI to Fond du Lac, WI

84 miles with 2426' of climbing

Hooray! The heat broke today. We noticed it as soon as we walked outside. I wish that I had a dollar for the number of times that I heard, "It's a beautiful day!" Everyone was in an upbeat mood and happy to be reunited after yesterday's debacle and stressful day. The first 25 miles flew by. Our first SAG stop was at this picturesque quarry. The granite that came from this quarry was used in the construction of Grant's Tomb....

The second highlight was the stop for Bratwurst sandwiches. While I cannot attest to the accuracy of "Voted best in the state," I can tell you that I heard some great reviews!

We arrived in Fond du Lac, meaning "Foot of the Lake" by 1:30 and had a wonderful lunch at the charming restaurant (converted from a church) across the street from our hotel. 

Our after dinner entertainment was a t-shirt swap, which proved to be great fun! I landed a t-shirt from Israel from my friend Yuval. All in all, it was a terrific day. After the past week of 4 centuries in 4 days, we appreciated the lighter mileage of 84. I can't imagine making that statement just one short month ago!